First cologne by Hermes, created by nose Françoise Caron in 1979. Orange and oakmoss; woody undertones, recreated in 2009 by Jean-Claude Ellena. 1980s version much more candied orange, a bit warmer; but also dries off much faster.

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I get the oakmoss straight from the beginning; sharp and dry orange; and some anise, and patchouli, indeed. Spontaneous and elegant.