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“What a Porn Movie Should Smell Like”

GUERLAIN : Mitsuoko

by Jacques Guerlain (1919)

Created at the start of Les Années Folles; anticipating the era of flappers. Ment to say Mitsuko; could be  (ray) and (child), but also (secret) or (nectar). First scent to use C14 (peach-skin smell). Favourite of Charlie Chaplin and Ingrid Bergman.


I find it very dense, floral. Roses straight from the beginning, but very round - bergamots to the top, oakmoss to the bottom. A bit later lots of labdanum come forth, some peaches too, but everything is still convoluted. After 10 minutes, some vetiver comes out; and moss & resins, almost light leather. It seems to dry off then, but then it comes back; peachy and woody and a little bit animalic; then dries off into peach-skin.